8:30am: Breakfast at Pancake Headed 煎饼当家
Today, we will head to Hangzhou, but before that, we will have breakfast at another popular jian bing store in Shanghai. Unlike Jian Bing Huang, Pancake Headed has many outlets across Shanghai. More like a fast food chain concept, Pancake Headed offers many innovative filling combinations, and a huge variety of soy milk and Taiwan-style milk tea options.
9am: to Hangzhou (2.5hrs), Fajiao Shitang 发酵食堂 (canele shop)
After which, we will take the train to Hangzhou. Hangzhou is much further than Suzhou. It is the capital city for Zhejiang, China. Many people are here to visit the UNESCO-listed West Lake, so are we; but first, we will pop by Fajiao Shitang, a canele concept store for a quick snack after a long 3hrs train ride.
Canele is a custard-like cake with a dark crunchy caramelised exterior. Fajiao Shitang does them in many unique flavours like red wine and figs! Their top selling flavours are earl grey, cinnamon and sweet rice wine, classic original vanilla, lemon, matcha, white peach and sencha, chocolate, coffee, salted egg and cinnamon apple.
12:30pm: Explore West Lake 西湖 a little, along Xihu Tunnel (1hr)
West Lake is massive! So we will break for lunch before we continue to explore the remaining. West Lake is one of the most beautiful lakes in China. It is surrounded by mountains on three sides, and the borders of Hangzhou on the other side. The Su Bank (苏堤) and the Bai Bank (白堤) divides the lake surface into 5 sub-lakes: Li Lake (里湖), Wai Lake (外湖), Yue Lake (岳湖), Xili Lake (西里湖), and Xiaonan Lake (小南湖).
The West Lake is popular for its classic 10 scenes, located at different locations. More than 200yrs ago, Emperor Qianlong marked each scene with a four-character inscription. Every scene has its own iconic features.
1: Melting Snow on Broken Bridge 断桥残雪
The best time to visit is during winter where the bridge is covered with snow, forming a romantic scene. According to "The Legend of the White Snake", Broken Bridge is the site where two lovers met and fell madly in love. The beautiful maiden was actually a white snake. The bridge is not actually broken. During winter, the snow on the north side starts melting first as the south side remains in shade, giving the bridge a spilt image. As the snowy side blends perfectly into its surroundings, it gives off an illusion of the bridge being ripped off.
2: Autumn Moon over Calm Lake 平湖秋月
The best time to visit is on nights where you get a bright full moon, like during Mid-Autumn Festival, thus the name. It features a teahouse overlooking the West Lake.
3: Listening to Orioles Singing in the Willows 柳浪闻莺
The best time to visit is during summer when the orioles are around. The is the best spot to admire the entire lake surrounded by mountains on three sides. During the Southern Song Dynasty (1127–1279), an imperial garden was built on this site, featuring weeping willow trees. The imperial garden complete with pavilions, bridges and lawns, is now a public park. The orioles still visit the willows, where they sing as beautifully as when the Emperor came here to listen to their song.
4: Sunset Glow over Leifeng Pagoda 雷峰夕照
The best time to visit is during sunset. The sunset glow over the pagoda is the classic West Lake sunset view, with West Lake in the foreground, the pagoda central, and backed by mountains. You can view the pagoda from Changqiao Park (长桥公园) or Xueshi Park (学士公园).
5: Three Pools Mirroring the Moon 三潭印月
This scene features three miniature stone pagodas in the lake itself. Built over 800yrs ago, these rounded hollow pagodas feature five round holes like windows around the top and bottom levels. On the night of the Mid-Autumn Festival, a candle is lit inside each of the pagodas. The light from the holes and the moon cast their reflections on the water, hence its name.
6: Evening Bell Ringing at Nanping Mountain 南屏晚钟
The best time to visit is during sunset when the bell is rung. As the sun slowly sets, its softened rays cast their multi-colored reflections on the surface of the lake. At this hour, the huge bell of Jingxi Temple is rang. Its clear, forceful sound reverberates across the lake, amplifying in the still evening air.
7: Viewing Fish and Lotus Fronds at Flower Pond 花港观鱼
The best time to visit is during summer when the lotus flowers bloom. This is the best site to see and feed the fish of West Lake, at the southern end of Su Causeway. A stream flows from Huajia Hill joining the West Lake, and many flowers grow at where the fresh water flows in, so it was called the "flower harbour" (花港). This area also has a peony garden which blooms in April.
8: Spring Dawn at Su Causeway 苏堤春晓
The best time to visit is between March-April for the peach blossoms. When spring comes, the whole causeway is covered with peach blossoms, creating an especially charming scene. The causeway was built during the Northern Song Dynasty by Su Dongpo (1037–1101), a great scholar and famous poet, and was named after him. Stretching 2.8km, it includes six bridges.
9: Twin Peaks Piercing the Clouds 双峰插云
The best time to visit is in the early morning where the mist or clouds surrounds the mountains. Other than the lake’s beautiful surroundings, located 5km to the north stands two mountains. On days with low-lying clouds or fog, these two tall peaks look like they are piercing through the vapour.
10: Lotus in the Breeze at Crooked Courtyard 曲院风荷
The best time to visit is between June-August for the lotus flowers. Crooked Courtyard was the location of a winery, and the scent of lotus flowers and wine were blended into the scent of the cool breeze from the lake, which was said to be positively intoxicating. Though the winery is no longer around and the place has been converted into a public park, the cool breeze from the lake still smells like lotus flowers.
1:30pm: Lunch at Hangzhou Restaurant 杭州酒家
Hangzhou Restaurant is one of the top rated dining places in Hangzhou. Try the Begger's Chicken (果木泥烤叫化鸡), an iconic Hangzhou dish that consists of a stuffed chicken wrapped with lotus leaves, then a layer of clay. It is then baked slowly using low heat. Upon serving, the server will crack the clay before your eyes, revealing the nicely wrapped chicken.
Legend had it said that the origin of this dish was from a beggar who stole a chicken from a farm, but having no pot or utensils, he wrapped the chicken with lotus leaves, then clay or mud over it. He buried the wrapped chicken in the hole where he had lit a fire. When he dug up the chicken and cracked the clay / mud, he found the meat was tender and aromatic.
Other recommended items include Dongbo Pork Belly (东波肉), Hangzhou Smoked Fish (杭州熏鱼), and West Lake Vinegar Fish (西湖醋鱼).
Beggar’s Chicken.
West Lake Vinegar Fish.
2:30pm: back to West Lake + boat ride from pier at Hangzhou Restaurant (3.5hrs)
Other than exploring the West Lake by foot or on a bicycle, you can also get a boat ride through the lake. There are a few types of boats to choose from and you can board one at one of these piers - The First Park, Children's Palace, Zhongshan Park, Hangzhou Restaurant, Yuefei Temple, Huagang and King Qian Temple.
The most popular boat choice is the "Pleasure Boat" at RMB55/pax. The most premium is the "Luxury Gaily-painted Pleasure Boat" at RMB70/pax. For a smaller boat choice, there is the "Self-driving Boat" at RMB 25/pax, and "Self-rowing Boat" (aka "sampan") at RMB30/pax. There is also a night cruise available for the "Pleasure Boat" at RMB150/pax.
6pm: Dinner at Yuanxing Noodle Restaurant 源兴面馆
Lastly, before we return back to Shanghai, we will have dinner at Yuanxing Noodle Restaurant. You have to try the Pian'er Chuan (片儿川), a classic Hangzhou soup noodles dish that comes with bamboo shoots, Chinese mustard greens, sliced meat and mushrooms. Other popular choices include Tomato and Meat Noodles (番茄笋肉面), Dry Mixed Noodles (小排拌面), Braised Large Intestines (卤大肠), and Shrimp Siew Mai (虾仁烧卖).
Pian'er Chuan.
7pm: back to Shanghai, airbnb (2.5hrs)
*Instagram is rarely used in China. Most of the photos will be from Dazhong Dianping (大众点评) instead - a China app where users can share their photos and videos, rate and review food and places.
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